If you read us for a long time, you know that we love the chambray.
On a shirt, it’s a fabric at home anywhere, be it a snub Chino and the runnings; or with jeans, boots, a blazer and a nice tie. For this reason, the chambray shirt was the first garment that we wanted to do it under the BonneGueule line.
If I left very satisfied with our Italian chambray, somewhere in my head, I knew someday we’d out a shirt with a Japanese chambray high-end… It is one of the reasons why we created this Line Japan: offer you a Japanese chambray in Italian addition to our chambray shirt.
It’s time to just introduce in details!
Material: a unique Japanese chambray
Japan Line, chambray is Japanese: it comes from a Japanese chambray, The House Maruwa Kobishi specialists.
It’s a great Japanese, specialist Weaver in the tissue to the rich and varied textures. The extent of his knowledge is impressive, because subjects Maruwa product all have a little something more, and recognizable.
As usual, the Japanese are very stingy in information on their contents. Googling “Maruwa”, have fun you’ll almost find anything! We know only that the brand provides large houses (and given the quality of the fabrics, we’ll just believe them), but impossible to learn more…
The chambray shirt from the Japan Line is special, since it is obviously composed of cotton(86%), but also flax (7%) and ramie (7%).
If you are familiar with the cotton and flax, ramie is perhaps a more dark fiber. Yet, it is one of the oldest textile fibers used, because she would have begun to be woven there are more than 6,000 years.
Concretely, it looks like a nettle and has fairly close properties of flax, in terms of resistance and ventilation in the face of the heat.
What is very surprising, is that flax and ramie are rustic and irregular fibers, but the mix on this fabric gives a chambray of surprising, sweetness that remains after washing.
It has a “warmer” than a classic chambray hand and seems lighter.
The texture is also very different from a classic material. As we have repeatedly mentioned,the Japanese like the raw, real, authentic materials.
For example, our Italian chambray is very “smooth” and regular. In comparison, the Japanese chambray seems much more ‘grainy ‘. And it is precisely the interest to mix linen and ramie, because it allows for a rich texture.
There are actually two elements that give this artisanal dimension:
- the color of the wires. Indeed, chambray is composed of blue and white wires. If you look closely, you’ll see that the white wire is sometimes more or less ecru and blue are very subtle variations of colours: it is what gives this craftsmanship! On the other hand – and according to my tests – color stay not wash after wash.
- the diameter of the wires. It is thanks to the linen and ramie that the sons have thicknesses very slightly different, which gives the fabric a real personality. We’re kilometres of completely smooth and uniform fabrics you see everywhere.
Even if the description of a color is always a very delicate exercise, one would be tempted to say that the color of the chambray is between maya blue and a blue sky…
In any case, I never liked the dark opposites, it is for this reason that we wanted to a much brighter color.
The weaving is more open and adding fiber ‘airy’ as flax and ramie, are that it will be a very good shirt as soon as temperatures rise.
Cutting and finishing of the Japan Line shirt
About the Cup, to preserve the material, slightly amended in order to avoid the slightest tension, while maintaining our distinctive silhouette.
Concretely, the case has not moved, the shoulders are always the same, we just added a bit of ease at the level of the belly. I insist on one point: take exactly the same size as the shirt in chambray, because as I said, the shoulders have not moved and the bending is almost the same.
Even if you are very thin, the shirt will go you without problems, such as in chambray Italian.
How do I know that it is the right size?
- There is not the slightest horizontal fold: visually, the bust is perfectly uniform.
- There are “the folds of fluidity”: they allow does not apply beyond measure seams and have a real comfort.
- The back falls perfectly right, which allows to have just the right amount of ease.
At the level of the finishing, we obviously kept the down button hidden in the collar, which helps to keep it pinned.
The buttons are made in the same wood as those of dress shirt in chambray Italian (see official site: http://www.mensshirtsshop.com/best/mens-dress-shirts/), namely thebio of Italy wood which patina over time.
We also have the last buttonhole horizontally in order to better distribute the tension of the tissue at the level of the hips.
And finally, the small detail that kills: to pay tribute to the Japanese side of the material, the swallow of reinforcement is selvedge. Because Yes, it is a chambray Japanese selvedge!
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